REVISED LIST (In no particular order):
1. Rear shock mounts need welded on and
1a. top mount bracket needs fabricated. (DONE)
2. Steering arm needs taken off for reaming (DONE)
3. Gear oil in front AND rear differential (FRONT - DONE)
4. Make sure brake lines are not too short during flex. there is room to move the hard lines on the frame down to give more length. the drivers side you can move the hard line from on top of the shock mount to the shorter side of it.
4a. Replace broken brake line (shit happens)
5. Bleed brakes.
6. Lubricate all tie rod ends. (DONE)
7. Attach ARB air line kit - making the front/rear independent (DONE)
8. Attach axle vent to front axle. (DONE)
9. Replace u-joint on driveshaft (DONE)
10. Reinstall drveshaft (DONE)
11. Get spacers off and bolts out (DONE)
12. Align front wheels (DONE)
13. Install all weather outlet (DONE)
14. Clean and paint all bare metal.

Well, it's not done yet but it's coming along. Once I get the rotors and steering arm back, I should be able to move it.

I edited the list above and there is still more to do but it isn't too bad. I have to order the rear shocks before the bar Bill & Tony made for the upper mounts can be welded in place and the rear axle shock mounts welded on. That is the only big thing left I think...other than prepping the bare metal for paint...that could take some time.

I want to thank everyone who showed up to help with the install...but especially Bill for all the hours of time he put in helping me decide what to do & helping me do it & Von for letting us use the barn & for always being there to help me when I need it. You guys are the best! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

I can't wait to get it on the trails and try it out!

Here is the link to the pictures I took:
http://s554.photobucket.com/albums/jj424/LUVMYYJ/Mechanical/Front%20Dana%2060%20swap/

No problem at all Kathy. Thanks for loaning me your jeep to work out some pent up aggression... beating a piece of steel into submission for a good cause is great stress relief.

The beers helped too... hehehe.

I had a great time, and it kept my mind off of everything. Thanks Bill and Von too... I have been away far too long.

But great news is I STILL HAVE BLUE! So this weekend I am going to start turning and burning... weather permitting.

sweet

My parts came back from Perry Hall Power yesterday. I put the spacers on (with the old bolts for now) and everything seems good. When the longer bolts come in I'll put the lock-tite on them and swap out the old ones.

I got the steering arm back on with no trouble...just used a c-clamp. However, when I went to try to align the front I wasn't able to turn the tie rod. The driver's side end won't move. I unthreaded it rom the other end and my plan is to put it in a vice and get it out to see what's going on. The problem is that I need to get that end threaded much father into the tube because I already turned the other rod end as far as I can into the tube and it is still way out of alignment.

I saw some marks on the threads (like from a vice grip or something). When you guys were building tie rod, did you have a problem with that end? (I was still working on my rear brake assembly so I didn't see it go together). My question is...should I take it out so I can put a jam nut on it (which right now isn't really needed because it is so tight) or keep threading it in because maybe the threads are stripped already and taking it out would make it harder to get back in?

The joints in the tie rod actually went in very easy by hand and we had no trouble at all with that. We struggled getting the threaded insert in and used heat to help it along. I have 2 thoughts.
1. You do realize that one is left hand tread and the other is right hand thread right?
2. The heating process used to get the threaded insert in has caused the threads to become slightly warped.

WAIT....the tie rod was exactly the right length when it was built, how can it possibly be way off? Are you talking about the drag link?

I am talking about the tie rod. I don't know how it is way off. I put the tires on, turned the steering wheel so that it is straight and it is toed-out. The one in question is a right hand thread and there is alot of thread sticking out of it (a few inches)....there is plenty left to go into the rod and should fix the problem as long as I can get it in.

attach the stuck end into the steering arm and use a big pipe wrench on the bar itself.

Just keep threading it on & leave the jam nut off?

Yes, that is what I would do if you cant remove it. might want to put a little threadlocker on the threads when you get near the end to keep it from coming loose.

I like the idea of putting it back in the steering arm and then turning it...easier than trying to use a vice.

I picked up the longer socket head bolts today for the adapters and two bolts I needed for the rear calipers so I have everything I need to get the rear mobile again. Once I fix the tie rod and get it aligned, the front will be ready too.

Bill, I talked to Rancho today and I can use any of the shocks I found on that list at a 30 degree angle. The difference between the ones of similar size is the valving. I told the guy it was for a rock crawler and he said I should go with the softer valving because it is better for flexion and that the firmer valving would be better for street use. Should I still get the firmer ones as you suggested?

hmmm, since it is at a 30 degree angle I would think yes, firmer is better. besides as much as you like to flog that jeep it should be built to handle it.

you can go up earlier,i can be up there around 1 o'clock saterday. i am going to put my alternator back on and pull it outside to weld on it. suppose to be real nice weather

Awesome!! I still have plenty to do but I believe I have everything I need except the shocks now I just ordered those. I got the stiff ones for the front and the rear. (Isn't that how it should be? )

I get to sleep in and work on my Jeep. It's looking like a good start to the weekend.